Huskvarna 137 will start and stalls the causes. Chainsaw stalls: Possible causes and ways to eliminate them. What to do if when pressed for gas stalls chainsaw

Chainsaw is a relatively simple device, whose help from time to time subsidiaries are resorted, installers, builders and rescuers. Building stores offer a lot of chainsaw models that differ in power and quality of work. However, this practical and unique technique may fail.

If such a trouble happened, it is very important to find the cause of the fault and it is possible to eliminate it as soon as possible. For this, it is not necessary to contact the services where the technique will be put in order for a specific fee. Sometimes a breakdown can be so insignificant that it is easy to cope with it yourself.

How is the tool factory?

Chainsaw is equipped carburetor two-stroke enginewhich is practically its main element. Its power depends on the technique of technology and its direct destination.

In the saw headset chainsaws include:

• cutting chain;
• sprocket;
• asterisks;
• tires.

The bigger step possesses the headset, the more powerful and it will be more productive, and therefore deeper will be incisive. Therefore, the engine should not give to her by power, otherwise the operation of the tool will be defective.

Lubrication chainsaws are made by special oil directly from the second tank located on the manual block. Its mass has such features that the fuel intended for the engine and the oil ends simultaneously.

I got acquainted with the main elements of the tool, it will now be easier to deal with the reasons why the chainsaw can stop working and how to eliminate them.

Causes of faults and ways to eliminate them

Almost every chainsaw owner at least once faced the fact that the tool or not at all start, when you click on the gas, or start and after some time it stalls. The causes of the failure of the device can be set. Some of them are pretty simple and easily eliminate. Therefore, it is worth studying the main reasons that, with the elementary breakdown, do not carry the tool in the repair service chainsaw.

Why is the chainsaw start and immediately stalls?

There may be several reasons for this:

1. Not enough fuel in the gas tank. If the tool immediately stopped working immediately after the plant, then first it is necessary to check the presence of fuel in the gas tank. If it is not enough, then you need to add the fuel mixture, which is preparing strictly according to the instructions attached to the instrument. It consists of fuel for gasoline chainsaws with the maximum possible octane number and oil, the mark of which should be spelled out in the instrument's technical support.
2. Bad contact between candles and high-voltage wire. The gap between the candle tip and the wire should be no more than 0.5 mm. If Nagar was formed on the candle, then it must be cleaned and dried. Experts recommend periodically to update the candles, even if the old works are still working.
3. Pulling the candle. A large amount of fuel is collected between the electrodes of the candle, so if the candle is filled, the spark is not formed. To eliminate such a breakdown, it is enough to remove the candle and dry it. It will be useful with the help of a gas burner to produce a glass.
4. Pollution of the carburetor giberator or fuel filter. Pretty the benzofilter is quite simple, and the cleaning of the carburetor is better to trust the specialists.

Failure in work chainsaws at idle

The reason for such a malfunction can be dirty muffler. Therefore, to make the tool normally earn, sometimes you just need to clean the silencer from exhaust resin deposits.

Quite often, the air filter is clogged in the tool, the air intake is littered and this leads to the fact that the device stalls at idle.

To clean the air filter, it must be carefully pulled out, following the dust from it to get on the carburetor. Next, the filter is thoroughly washed with the use of detergents, dried and installed in place.

Stop working at idle the chainsaw due fuel filter problems. To check it, you need to disconnect the benzier from the carburetor. If the fuel in the podachka almost does not flow out of the hose and goes to the carburetor weakly, then most likely the filter is scored by garbage.

To clean it, first of all you should drain all the fuel, and then remove the filter from the tank. This is done with a wire hook through the tank head. The filter is then disconnected from the hose and cleales.

For normal operation, aircraft air and fuel filters are recommended to change every three months.

Sick at idle the chainsaw can then when she damaged fuel line. Therefore, each time you start work, it is recommended to inspect the mechanism, its nodes and blocks on possible mechanical damage to the housing and fuel powder, fluid flows.

If the tool has been kept in a raw place for a long time or subjected to temperature drops, then the tube could simply crack. In this case, it must be replaced with a new one.

If the chainsaw does not want to work at idle, then the reason for this may be non-compliance with the ratio of gasoline and oil when the fuel mixture is prepared. The proportions must strictly comply with the instructions attached to the chainsaw. If they do not observe them, the engine will not be enough enough, as a result of which the mechanism will begin to stuff.

Chainsaw does not work on large turns

At high speed, the tool can begin to stroke due to faults:

• gasoline pump;
• fuel filter;
• air filter.

To believe the gasoline pump, you need to see, seeps through it fuel or not. If he is damaged, then most likely a chainsaw stalls because of this, and the pump must be replaced with a new one.

To check fuel filter, It is enough to disconnect the hose enough from the carburetor and see gasoline or not. If he flows the full jet, then everything is fine. Otherwise, the fuel filter must be cleared or replaced with a new one.

To clean the air filter, it is necessary to simply wash under running water and then dry well.

The instrument engine does not withstand loads

If the chainsaw often began to stumble when cutting thick logs, the problems should be signed in air filters or fuel supply system.

Working with a strong load, the engine may simply not get enough fuel and stop. Therefore, it is possible to eliminate this problem with a cleaning air filter or a fuel replacement, which should be prepared strictly according to the instructions of the instruction.

Never wants to work new chainsaw

In principle, problems with the new tool should not be, but if it still does not start, then most likely it manufacturing defects Or not complied with all instructions instructions.

To eliminate this problem, you must first see if everything is screwed and connected, as the instruction requires.

The cause of the malfunction may be an incorrectly cooked fuel mixture. The chainsaws can affect low quality ingredients from which fuel was made. Best tool oil to choose famous manufacturerSo that then problems did not have problems when working.

If everything was done strictly according to the instructions, but the chainsaw still does not work, then you will have to contact the service workshop.

Cylinders of the cylindrophone group

If all the faults described above are eliminated, and the chainsaw when pressed on gas still stalls, it will be necessary to search in the engine, or rather, in its cylinder.

Sometimes it is possible to determine the performance of the cylinder-portion group simply visually. Start the saw will not work if the cylinder will be zadira, chips and other defects. In this case, spare parts must be replaced.

The instrument when pressed for gas may not start or stop working at all if the piston rings are damaged. Therefore, if there is no other obvious reasons, it is necessary to investigate the rings whose damage leads to the loss of engine power. It's time to change the rings, says their free move in the grooves of the cylinder.

However, in order to fully understand what the technical condition of the cylindroport group should be fully disassembled the engine. This time-consuming work is only a specialist.

Undoubtedly, the vehicle breakdown is able to upset its owner. But ahead of time, it is not worth a despair, because some breakdowns can be eliminated on their own. If the chainsaw does not start when the gas is pressed, it does not mean that it immediately needs to be carried in the workshop. In some cases, it will be enough to simply follow the advice of specialists who are described in this article.

Even with a great desire, the chainsaw is inappropriate to the category of complex devices. And we note again: the simplicity of the design acts on its characteristic feature. However, despite this fact, even such an uncomplicated device breaks, a considerable amount of time takes.

The difficulty is not the procedure for the repair, but the correctness of damage determination. One and the same breakdown can be completely different shortcomings. Therefore, the engine or the carburetor should not be hurrying immediately before the signs of breakage will not be investigated. There can be little than useful, you will have to connect your own mind anymore.

Existing breakdown options can be attributed to one of two categories: damage to the engine system with numerous groups and nodes in it (ignition, fuel supply, exhaust, cylindro-piston) and breakage of other nodes (lubrication system, brake, tire, clutch coupling, etc. ).

When the engine is faulty

It often happens that the chainsaw disturb the familiar performance of the engine. It is the search and bringing in a good condition of damaged engine systems from users and take a lion's share of time. Manifestations they can have such:

• can't start;
• chainsaw stalls when he becomes;
• instability of work;
• at idle works usually, but at high speed it stalls.

It is intended to repair themselves to repair chainsaw, it is advisable to apply the exclusion method - to consistently check the probable causes of damage. Begin to check those for the correction of which will leave the least time.

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Failure in the work of the incendiary system

Absolute all designated varieties of engine malfunctions can be caused by failures in the incendiary system. When troubleshooting has chainsaws to start looking for a fault, it should be from a candle. What is both some other meaning: the condition of the candle will give a prompt about the operation of the fuel group as a whole. Having found any problem, it is necessary to analyze the candle, before turning it out. What is the disconnection of the wire and through a special key, it is disintegrating.

The dryness of the candle indicates that the source of the problem is not associated with an incendiary system, but with the absence of fuel fluid in the cylinder. The candle in this situation is screwed back and taken for analyzing the fuel group.

With a significant contamination of the candle, the fuels implies the rejunction of the latter. Such a phenomenon is associated with the increasing carburetor or non-compliance with the requirements of the start. The candle in such a situation is purified and dried, the cylinder is released by closing the fluid supply and applying the starter to ventilate the combustion chamber and getting rid of excess fluid. Then the candle is returned back and the start is re-produced.

The presence of abundant dark Nagar also only confirms the presence of problems in the fuel system.

Violations may occur in proportions between gasoline and oil, in poor adjustment of the carburetor or adding low-quality oil. Make a rinse with a candle with gasoline, cleaning from a car by a needle either sewed, an emotion of fine-grained electrodes and put back.

Also in relation to all situations makes sense to monitor the gap between the candle electrodes. According to its braziness, it is obliged to correspond to the value from the range of 0.5-0.65 mm. Checks requires a sealing candle gasket. If it is worn or damaged, it will ensure insufficient tightness for the combustion chamber. And this will cause a decrease in compression in the cylinder and the problem operation of the engine.

Even when the candle control gives reason to believe that damage is related to the fuel system, the candle is experiencing a spark. At least to eliminate suspicions in the fact that there are problems with this issue. Perform:

• wearing a cable ignition candle;
• taking advantage of pliers with insulation, the candle nut or threads pressed to the cylinder;
• press the starter handle and observe, the spark will arise or not.

When the spark does not occur, the candle is changed. If the sparks do not occur when replacing the candle, then analyzes the condition of the high-voltage to the object and contact with the candle.

Calling the absence of sparking can malfunction of the ignition module or non-compliance with the gap between it and the magnetic wire of the flywheel. The latter should be 0.2 mm. In particular, the impairment of the gap becomes quite possible if the sawing was performed on the eve and removal of the flywheel with an incendiary module. The unsuitable ignition module is replaced.

After performing all the steps to check the ignition system and not finding deviations, proceed to analyzing the fuel supply system.

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Faulty fuel supply system

If, in the study of the candle, it was established that the liquid into the cylinder is not supplied, then the likely causes of this fact figure out. They happen:

• the fuel is not supplied from the tank due to the slaughter of the cover of the cover (Sapunka), and a vacuum occurs inside the tank, which creates an obstacle to the exit of the liquid;
• fuel filter contaminated in the tank;
• fuel fluid from the carburetor does not enter or enters insufficient amount per cylinder.

In order to diagnose the first 2 reasons from the carburetor, the fuel hose is removed and observed, the flow is either no fuel from it. When it flows out a full-fledged jet, the filter and the sapun do not look. If it flows weakly or does not flow at all, then it is believed that the source of damage is found. Sapuna cleaning is performed by a needle.

Through the bay hole of the bay of the devastated fuel tank with a hook-wire, take out the fuel filter together with the suction hose. From the last filter is removed and cleaned or change to fresh. Chainsaw manufacturers recommend to replace the fuel filter after each trimester.

The weak flow of fluid into the cylinder from the carburetor or non-compliance with the proportions between the liquid and the air is caused by several reasons:

• climbing air filter;
• unregulated carburetor, clogging its channels or a filter grid.

A commonly repaired chainsaw is accompanied by the purification of the air filter, since its pollution is carried out very quickly. When this happens, the air intake in the carburetor decreases, the fuel fluid at the outlet becomes too enriched, which leads to interruptions in the usual operation of the engine.

Removing a contaminated filter for cleansing is made with great caution, in order not to shock the dirt into the carburetor. The filter is clean or washed with water with a cleaning agent, dried and returned to its place.

Centrifugal grip Chainsaws: 1 - friction linings, 2 - springs, 3 - drum.

The adjustment of the carburetor eliminate its increasingness. As usual, this is carried out by means of 3 screws - turnover to the maximum and at least idling. Adjustment is performed, strictly adhering to descriptions in the instructions. The engine is different easy to break. Other manufacturers of chainsaw provide for a single screw of idle moves in order to eliminate unnecessary interference in the performance of a carburetor of inexperienced users.

When the adjustment of the carburetor turns out to be ineffective, clean the channels with the filter grid and immediately check the preservation of the membrane. In chainsaws, the carburetor is considered a capricious device, so it should be disassembled and cleaned, understanding all the responsibility of the operation.

The peculiarity of working with it is that many small elements of its components, they have the ability to swallow imperceptibly from their places and be lost forever. After disassembling once without thinking such a naughty mechanism, it is possible in the same form and not collected.

If there is little or at all there is no experience in repairing the carburetor, it is better for him and not to be independently, but to entrust this responsible event by a specialist from the service center. Cleaning the carburetor there is sometimes produced by ultrasound.

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Silencer

Fuel system Chainsaw: 1 - fuel filter, 2 - carburetor, 3 - manual pump of pre-swap.

Often the cause of the engine breakage, especially when the engine operates perfectly on low revs, and at large - heats up and the chainsaw stalls, acting down by the combatant sparking products in the silencer, creating obstacles to a full exhaust.

The repair in such a situation is reduced to the removal of the silencer, its analysis and wet cleaning of a car with the participation of detergents. After washing the unsolved silencer, he was dried with a hairdryer. Since the nagar consists of carcinogenic particles, it is unacceptable to clean the discharge, because toxins will fall into respiratory system Masters. After removing the silencer, the release hole is plugged with the cloth.

The cause of the clogging is the one in which the fuel fluid with an excessive amount of oil (more recommended by the manufacturer), base oil or non-2-stroke engines are used.

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Damage to the cylinder piston group

More solid is the damage to the cylinder-piston group (CPG). This includes: the wear of the cylinder and the piston, on their walls of scratches, wear or piston rings in grooves, the wear of the crankshaft bearings. Many of these problems cause a decrease in the pressure in the cylinder and the impossibility of the engine of the engine or its work on the complete return when he is heated and.

Air purification system: 1 - cover covering filter fine cleaning, 2 - Fine cleaning filter, 3 - cover closing filter coarse cleaning, 4 - coarse cleaning filter.

The CPG state is assessed by one of several ways.

1. Removing the muffler allows you to observe in the opening opened part of the end surface of the cylinder. Although the foreseeous area is small, but still gives it to shed light in the state of the CPG.
2. Measure compression that is very informative for the state of the elements of the CPG. The procedure is performed by means of a compressometer supplied to the candle hole.
3. With a drill with a manual starter or flexible shaft, a crankshaft is performed by browsing the pressure immediately on the pressure gauge. At the saw with normal performance, it should be at least 8-9 atm (or 0.8-0.9 MPa). Falling, it leads to a decrease in engine performance. The pressure of 5 atm also involves the operation of the engine, but already at idle turns.

The accuracy of the assessment of the state of the CPG is possible only with the full screening of the engine: locks from the cylinder of the cylinder and remove the piston. When detecting on the last bulwes, chips or deep scratches, it is replaced. As for the cylinder, then when damaged on the surface or its development is mounted under the repair size. Small compression can be caused by a worn out or a piston ring. A good ring does not contain a car, freely rests in the piston groove, adjacent to the surface of the cylinder from the inside is quite tight.

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Malfunctions of the lubricant system at the chain

All, without exception, the guinnance guide contains references to the damage to the lubricant system of the chain, which are sufficiently common. It:

• admission to the lubricant chain in the missing quantity or non-notion at all;
• oil leakage.

System of coarse air purification: 1 - snow filter, 2 - mesh filter.

When dry chains, inspect and clean the canals that feed oil on the tire. Close them is not uncommon.

With significant (in small quantities, it is considered the norm) oil leaks examine the attachment of the tubes to the pumping stacker on the tightness that can be reset or cracking. The change in the integrity of the oil pipeline (the drums are not taken into account) may cause chain lubrication failure. Air suits the pump, which reduces its performance. Problems with tightness corrected by changing tubes or their sealing.

The essential problem of the lubrication group are cracks on the oil pump housing. Then he change him.

Gray Pots 16-06-2012 18:07

"Outstanding" here here by this craft of Chinese petroloporrome, well, and it's all clear from the name. Who communicated with them? How to treat? Zhikler seemed to blow, pump pumps, and even at least penki - even on hot, just from vibration a slot of a slightly ambulance - stalls.

And, there is still between the "exit" of the carburator and the rubber "knee" there is a ring of that, with a side of the inner diameter - this side should be inserted into the carburetor or to the gum?

And another question - there is a suitable hat - one of the gas tank, one of the depths from somewhere - this "from the depths" there why, what does?

Prothet 18-06-2012 11:03

First -
in my opinion, the reasons may be the following:
1. A mixture of oil + gasoline normally? Maslice did not overflow?
2. It stalls with an open scene - a poor mixture. Carb is deregulated. Twist the quality of the mixture to the left. And it is better to give to the servicemen.

Father Mikhail 18-06-2012 11:24

Check the air filter clean

three lines 18-06-2012 11:25

The second hose for the operation of the gas station membrane.
Wash the crankshaft seals. Look no raw whether they.

carrier. 18-06-2012 12: 41quote: Originally posted by gray Pole:

Has anyone communicated with them?

Once the familiar gasters established. QUOTE: Originally posted by gray Pole:

How to treat?

It is easier to throw out one normal service for repairs is not taken.
See the carba connection with a cylinder for the supply of air and a connection to the air filter. Quality of quality can be tried to enrich the mixture. If they repeatedly with a dozen cubes, then most likely the motor died. TsPG there. Gray Pots 18-06-2012 16:18

V.G.LIFE. 18-06-2012 20:57

I somehow do not want to disassemble my Chinese chainsaw. Has anyone disassembled? What is the oil pump for lubrication chain? Diaphragm, gear? Why is it afraid of poor-quality oil, well, like a sunflower?

Ursvamp. 18-06-2012 21:26

if this is a model of a saw that the Gypsies are sold near supermarkets "Threaded-freezarplatted" - it is better to immediately throw out.

Pavel_a. 18-06-2012 21: 31quote: Originally posted by passerby:

On the second - the second hose is the ventilation of the engine crankcase so that the pressure is not created there.

Hardly on the two-stroke. The second hose, probably, the suction button.

Most likely sucking the air somewhere. See the laying between the carburetor and the cylinder, the crankshaft crankshaft and the tightness of the engine housing connections. Start with a carburetor laying.

lelik76. 19-06-2012 21:54

So to speak in continuation of the topic.
A neighbor at the cottage bought Sawn Saw, as he was told "German Pro-Va".
With a gasoline stop, it is fluttered by tank seam.
Saw started, but on pressing the handle of the gas-reaction zero.
So want to say: "People, do not buy this shit from the hands!"
Photo fake under the calm attaching.

Regards, Alexey.

carrier. 19-06-2012 22:13

I recognize my brother Kolya. (C))))

Pavel_a. 19-06-2012 22:32

There is not enough money for the return ticket, buy a good saw.
Previously, Huskvarna was shifted, now the calm appeared.
Although some praise. They say their money worth (2-3 thousand).

Ziminvlvl 27-06-2012 22:34

judging by the symptoms, the air superstar is. or between the car and the cylinder, and (as they were noted) through the glands of the crankshaft. Or even from the proceeded laying.

Gray Pots 21-07-2012 17:20

kreshevo decided the fill of the 95th fresh gasoline (previously was the 92nd and old one), now twists and does not even stall with a full gas, but here is Nova to attack - how to put it right?

Why stagnate chainsaws, the main reasons.

There are 2 screws at the bottom with the springs that the pulmonary to the carburator and one slightly above, which rests on the throttle lever. How much to twist and in what order?

Pavel_a. 21-07-2012 17:57

2 screws with springs - one screw of small gas, marked with the letter L, the second full gas screw, marked with the letter H. If there is no marking, it is usually a screw that is closer to the engine - L. Third screw - adjustment of idle speed.

It is necessary to start and swake the saw, the turnover screw to achieve so that it does not blahlah (if possible). Small gas screw to achieve maximum resistant and high revolutions. Screen adjustment screw to establish normal idling speed. Start sawing anything thick, press the gas lever and the full gas screw to achieve maximum power.
Something like this.

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Chainsaw has long been not a luxury, but required tool For anyone who has at least some kind of country plot. With it, it is possible to carry out garden work, wood harvesting, timber improvement and a lot more. There is a mass of models of chainsaws that differ in both capacity and according to the overall quality of execution. You can see this here - e-katalog.ru.

However, any technique can be capricious, and the chainsaws are no exception. Consider the most characteristic problems.

The tool stalls immediately after starting

One of the possible reasons is a lack of fuel. Check the fuel in the gas tank, and, if necessary, add. At the same time, it should be strictly followed by the recommendations of the instruction, especially in terms of the quality of gasoline and oil. We often ignore such subtleties, refueling the saw than it is that it causes an accelerated engine wear and leads to failures.

Also, the saw can sulk due to the deterioration in the contact of the spark plug with high-voltage wire. This may be caused by a mechanical shift or formation of a car. Sometimes it is recommended to periodically replace the candle to a new one, even if the old one did not show any problems in the work.

A chainsaw can work normally, being in a direct horizontal position, but stalls with side slopes. As a rule, it is also associated with a lack of fuel: the fuel tube is rising when the slope rises, and if there is little fuel, it rises above the fuel level.

Chainsaw stops at idle

If the cleaning of the muffler did not help to fix the problem, and the engine of your saw carburetor, you can try to configure it. On most models of engines, there are adjusting bolts of coarse and accurate adjustment (H and L, respectively).

Adjusting chainsaws, repair with your hands common faults

By zooming with their help, the engine turnover can be eliminated by the problem. Keep in mind that the adjustment of the carburetor is a rather subtle process that requires the use of tachometer.

The engine does not withstand loads

If the chainsaw stops just in the middle of a particularly thick log, then the problem may be caused by malfunctions in the fuel supply system or air filter problems. The engine simply does not receive a fairly combustible mixture to work with a strong load, and stops.

The usual solutions to these problems are to replace fuel in strict accordance with the recommendations in the instructions (we have already talked about this) and cleaning (replacement) of the air filter.

Chainsaw stalls with increasing revolutions

The reasons for this phenomenon are similar to the previous one: either the problem in the fuel system or in the air filter. Try to disconnect the fuel hose from the carburetor - if the gasoline flows badly (but you know exactly that the fuel in the tank is), then the reason in the gasoline filter. You can, at the same time, check and the fuel pump - fuel should not be seized through it. If this happens, the pump is advisable to replace.

Chainsaws

Malfunctions Chainsaws Calill MS 250

The problem is next - Sing Stihl MS 250 years Six in work. The oil is not supplied to lubricate the chain (it does not depend on the air temperature), to be accurate, it does not go to the side of the tire, but at the same moment when working intensively flows into the hole under the silencer. I cleaned everything, rubbed, but everything remained still. Tell me, what else can you do?

It happens sometimes. There, under the silencer, initially the plug plastic should stand. For some reason, it is sometimes squeezed out. You can do, that's what you need: the end key "on 8" - remove the muffler. Long tap M6 - length of about 100 mm, or standard with extension. Screw M6, which is not a sorry and a groom appropriate. Metal hacksaw. Tice. Here is technology: 1 - remove the muffler. 2 - we remove oil flux. 3 - Little piece of rags omit with a little tension in the hole so that then you can remove it. Tightly do not score! 4 - M6 toll cut 5 - 6 thread threads in the hole, clean from chips and remove a rag from the hole with a hook. 5 - From the screw M6 cut off a piece of the length of the threads of 5 - 6 (or millimeters 5-6), on this piece we cut the slot to the screech. - Cork is ready. (The aforementioned nut in order to clamp a screw and not damage the thread through it). 6 - screw the plug into the hole. Here you need carefully - it is impossible to cut deeply, otherwise it will block the outlet. Can be inserted into it from the fastening of the bus wire millimeter 2 with a diameter and turn the plug to
Touching the wire. 7 - put the muffler and check the oil supply.

I bought a chainsaw 6 ms 250. After a week I found in the place of fastening the crankcase of the black oil, it runs from under the screw, it is PRA, closer to the handle. There are suspicions that Carter may not be sealed.

husky Husqvarna 365 XP - does not work without a "suction"

What to do?

Do not worry - externally leakage does not appear. Neither flutters nor similar manifestations. Only on indirect signs - at first some increase in power and increase maximum revolutions. Then, as the leakage increases, the problems with idle begin, then there are problems with the launch.

The saw will start and stall. How to fix?

You need to first remove the fuel filter from the hose in the tank and try to work a little without it. Will not give anything - check the pulse hose - it can be seen bad, but you can see. With the help of a small flashlight, look into the gap between the top of the fuel tank and the bottom of the carburetor box - the hose should not hang out freely - it should be dressed on the nipple, cast at the same time with the carburetor hull
boxes. Sometimes it happens - with the cotton engine breaks it. If the hose is in place - then more complicated. Shock for the right end of the crankshaft - if there is at least a small backlash, you need to do a diagnosis. It may be weakened by the pallet mounting screws, the gland may be damaged (more often - right). I can also advise you to rearrange the carburetor with a good saw and try, whether it does not matter.

I have a chainsaw of Stihl MS 250, I bought 1.5 years ago, for the workpiece of firewood. The resource is clear, no more than 4 hours per day, and the rest of the saw during work should be given? If so how much? The saw works autumn-winter, about 40 m / o hours per year.

Resting there is a simple - hot saw can not be filled, it means that after producing fuel tank you need to take a break for cooling chainsaws. The break time is not specified anywhere.

The tool works perfectly, but when you restart (that is, warm) does not start. Need a candle to change or wait when cool?

Options are two - or there is nothing to burn or not to get up. That is, if the filter is clean, it means in the carburetor for some reason the sublicas are not removed during warm launch (and after launching it is removed to cool) and the saw is not enough or the spark disappears when the candles are heated. It is possible to re-enroll the mixture. Try the screw L spin not much. On the carburetor 3 screws. T - idle, L is low revs, H is high speed. On the right side on the air filter lid there are holes with marking opposite these screws. (Screw H is better not to twist).

Chainsaw Calm MS 250, 2 years old works, but recently began to notice - if it stands for a long time (more than 3 months), then with a factory or idle does not keep it or another time on high idling, the chain is twisted. Gasoline tank I will work out and everything comes to normal. Where is the problem?

If the gasoline from the carburetor does not produce, then perhaps this is the reason. Gasoline evaporates oil remains, the membranes in the carburetor are sticking out. In addition, the fuel mixture deteriorates over time, loses its properties. Even in the canister, the mixture is not recommended to store longer than 2-3 weeks.

Bought this tool. I came to the cottage refrained started, I tried to drink - everything is fine. Well, we translate the universal lever to the stop position, and it does not stall! In general, threw the lid, the contact closed. Can you enlighten me on the device to stop the engine? I saw only one contact on the spring, and the second stick actually in the universal lever and nothing else! There seems to be some kind of plate, but what?

At the end of the wire, the usual contact of the type "Mom". It is inserted into the appropriate socket on the lever and the contact spring must touch it when the lever "OFF". There are no intermediate parts. Spring should be from above. She has not so much a contact function as a locking shaft in different positions.

I exploit the stihl MS 250 chainsaw. The saw has not yet turned, I have any experience, therefore a few questions. 1. Surprised the brake work, or rather, with which sound it turns on, a sharp one, an unpleasant click, although the whole saw resonates, is it normal? 2. The leading starrel is somehow all black and redhead, it should be like all silver-metallic. So that it meant? 3. There was no bus in the box, it was given separately. Was it a reason to be alerted?

The brake is triggered with quite loud-clicking and felt. There is a powerful spring, there is something to click. It is not clear on the stars, you need to look. Tire and chain - yes, separately. The main thing is that and the other was Schtile.

After the saw warms up, idle turns disappear, stalls? If the gas does not drop, then it is possible to work like gas let go, it stalls. At the same time all the time is normal, but on the hot, so that you have to press gas, and then at idle do not start, tell me what is the problem? I wanted to clarify about idle speed (spinning chain). I know that in the saw two screws can adjust idle speeds. One LA, which can turn the user, the second L - it seems like it is desirable to twist on the service, in order not to harm saw. According to the instructions, the user is allowed to twist these two screws, and only if it does not help, you should contact the service. Should I climb into the settings of the carburetor to optimize idle stroke? If so, what is the algorithm of actions?

Screws there are adjusting three. "N" twist should not be twisted, and the main adjustment of idling is better to do "LA" - it is just a throttle throttle screw. The screw "L" is idle connected, but more "answers" for overclocking the engine and transient mode, so it is better not to touch it if possible. In general, the 250th differed "buggy" idle move. Depending on the year of release and the installed model of the carburetor, of course, but sometimes it was not possible to achieve normal idling. Or too high and turns the chain, or stalls. And sometimes "swimming" - adjust, it seems, normal and suddenly - once, and accelerates. Or vice versa - falls. In general, it is not always possible. So keep idling "La", what happens, it will work out.

I work as a saw MS 250, but after intensive use, the saw headset was unusable that e. Both chains stretched (although in principle they can still cut, if you shorten), the savings (40) at the end there are burrs outwards, and an asterisk is not long Life left. The question got up when, after pulling the chain hand over the tire, the chain is stronger, it is weakened as if it clings to something. In general, after using 40, I decided to put on 35 and the chain is not PM3 A PS (super). Should I put?

This is a normal phenomenon at intensive work. The chain stretched - the step increased. Star was worn out - the step decreased. One plus another gives a large inconsistency of the steps of the tire and the stars, from here - an incision and jerk. I will not say the tire, you have to watch. Cups cut, see how the new chain is on the spout of the tire. If the gap between the sheet and the links of the chain is, good and the tire will still work. If the chain "craws on the tire sheets in the nose zone, the bus conditionally developed a resource. In general, they have (and not only at the calm) the norm is this: one tire must work with four chains, and two chains with one asterisk. But this is not It is absolutely applicable, but only for clean fresh wood. There, just a pair of chains is working when the leading starrel is to wear. At the construction work, it can also be 3, and then 4 chains to work on one stars (tupim more often, we precisely, respectively, too) Already on disassembling structures and suppressed - 4 - 5 chains on one star is quite real. And according to the "Super" chains-like, in fresh wood I highly recommend. Pilyat shunter noticeably.

At the tire of the tire between the tire and the chain and the chain there is a gap. That is, as I understand it is possible to shorten both chains. But in my opinion I need a couple of links, but how do I understand, too, is not good? Also with the replacement of the lead star, I wanted to clarify - how does the Wenty behave?

Procurement would advise no more than one leading link. And if the shortened chain is no longer stretched, it is better to throw it. The step will be too different and nothing good. The cup itself works around three - four stars. Sometimes - more. Only the bearing is molting necessarily, otherwise in the second - the third stars breaks the landing. And the stars will change the stars in time, and sometimes there are cups, almost fired in half in the center of the sleeve, to which the stars sits down.

About the brake, please tell me. It is properly included before launching - in practice how critical it is and necessary? And yet - at the beginning of the topic it was written about the leaking of sawn oil during storage of chainsaws. I also encountered this and I was told that that, in order to avoid it, you just need to open and close the fuel neck so that the air would hit there. This is true?

The chain brake is larger for security, since when starting from the middle position of the lever, the chain immediately rotates. But if you care - there is no need for it at it at all. I never use them, although I have a chainsaw in my hands every day. And the oil on a good saw is simply nowhere to flow, unless the tires of the recesses in the housing and the lid. There are several grams - no problems will be created. And the lid of the oil clock can be opened and close - it will not be worse.

I have a chainsaw. On the third year of life, at the most unexpected moment refused to work. And it looked like that - in the presence of a normal fuel mixture, a good candle, the presence of sparks first refuses to start, after some attempts start sharply gaining momentum (as if fuel ends in the tank) and stalls, after which it does not start (normally - it's from the first Well, from the second, well, in the winter from the third starter jerk with a sacrifice).
After a long analysis, by repeated disassembly, inspections and fees, I found the reason. And the "dog" rummaged in the fuel line. The reason is banal, storage in the cheese is not heated Saraj, so the rubber fuel line was cracking. Externally fine cracks, the fuel does not flow, so did not attach importance, but after the removal and detailed feeling of the infrequent and purge found a hole. The photo did not but in the scheme the place show.

That is, the hose had a fine hole right after leaving the gas tank hole, under the carburetor. While we pull the Kick Starter's handle and the engine speed are not large, the fuel is sucked in the carburetor, although it is bad but it is sucking, but as soon as the engine is starting, the turnover increases more fuel consumption, the pump begins to work, but it is easier for it to suck the air than fuel, And a sign of the end of the fuel is manifested (a sharp increase in revolutions and ending work). Find the original hose was failed to find, so I had to cut off the arrow. 10 chainsaw faults that can be eliminated with their own hands Inside the shank inserted from the syringe of 5 cubes and increased the plastic hose. The work has shown that it was a fault site leading to a set, i.e. Factory, sharp rpm set and sharp end of work. If your unit behaves in a similar way (starts, gaining momentum and stalls) We are looking for the air supply location, it will not be necessary to check the hose itself. It is also worth checking the locations of the hose hose and the carburetor fitting. If the carburetor is collapsible (in particular, the float chamber is separated from the rest) Attention paying the gasket, when the air seats, the picture is similar, that is, the smoothness is gaining momentum, after which it stops, which is sufficiently sharply.

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Brazopila slows down

alkzn. 1 Aug. 2005. 15:20:59	Good day. Recently bought 180 ctill. I poured a couple of times (the day before yesterday the fuel mixture was flooded) and the unpleasant thing got out. Periodically, the chain began to slow down. As if the brake turns on, a couple of times fug with and again normally. Maybe someone had something like that?
Georgi61 (Russia) 1 Aug. 2005. 15:31:23	And was the run-in? After all, you need at least two or three full tank to burn at idle without a chain and tires.
Lamaster (Russia) 1 Aug. 2005. 16:04:48	The chain is not tormented by the case? The chain must be pulled out so that lifting the saw per chain, keeping the middle of the tire, when the casing of the body is cut from the surface of the chain completely out of the groove of the tire and raised over 1-2mm. If the chain is all normul, smarite the clutch .. Good luck!
Sergey I. (Moscow) 1 Aug. 2005. 16:06:35	2alkzn: Can a belt brake deformed? Or coupling "ditch". Look, the space around the cup of asterisk sawders, etc. Maybe the chain is pretty? Yours faithfully, Sergey
alkzn. 1 Aug. 2005. 16:07:51	This run was not. In the instructions, if I'm not mistaken, it was written that 2-3 tank should be cut in a shii mode, not to give a strong load for a long time, etc. That is, there is nothing about idling without a circuit and no tires. I did not give the load greater. saw 4 times all. When sawing 3 times after the plant saws, I remove the brake, I give gas - and the chain barely spin. Straight is killed that it slows down. Gasked several times - it seems that the chain pounded everything normally. Yesterday saw a pair of logs and at the time of sawing (on 3-4 cuts) saw began to slow down, right up to the stop. pulled out a drink, rejected 15 - 20 seconds. It was still felt that the chain was braking something jerks. Then everything went.
alkzn. 1 Aug. 2005. 16:12:08	After the first slowdown, I also thought that the chain was dragging - I checked, weakened. It is extended by two fingers easily, the gap during the separation of 1-2 mm. Sawdust nothing is clogged. The clutch and the ribbon brake itself can be sought / hard?
Sergey I. (Moscow) 1 Aug. 2005. 17:31:06	2alkzn: 1-2 mm is not enough, 4-5 mm norm. The ribbon brake to see it elementary, remove the tire lid, around the starp cup are looking for the desired - steel tape. When the protective lever is pressed, the asterisk should rotate freely, nothing is assisted. If between the brake and the drum of the sprocket, the sawdust and other products of the woodworking are removed. If the asterisk is clearly crushed, remove, either a locking ring (hemisphanage inserted into the groove on the spindle, is removed with a small screwdriver with a straight slot or seer), or a screw with left-thread (turns out clockwise), see if it does not hold that clutch. Springs in this design is not a hindrance, but the need to delete should not be deleted. By the way, check the star at the end of the tire, should also spin without effort. Check whether the circuit is easily moved along the bus, in the off state, the hand is pulled by the chain several times, it also should not be difficult. Yours faithfully, Sergey
alkzn. 2 Aug. 2005. 08:34:14	Thanks to everyone. Sedna in the evening I will squeeze.
alkzn. 3 Aug. 2005. 10:55:24	Well. Disassembled last night, looked. as I understood the mechanism of work this: The clutch has a tough connection with the engine (the more engine speed, the faster spinning). Coupling cams under the action of centrifugal force are moving out (the more speed - the stronger) and at a certain speed, the sprocket drum is pressed from the inside, and the chain is already spinning from the sprocket. When the brake is pressed, the steel strip clamps and stops the sprocket drum from the outside. The chain stops, the engine continues to work (already under load), the clutch continues to spin and grinds the sprocket drum from the inside. When the turns are resetting the coulets of the coating with springs, it is tightened and the grip to spin in idle, not the assisted sprocket. everything is okay. Dirt not much. Nothing bothers nothing. Everything moves, spinning. Springs in place, fists of the clutch mechanism with a screwdriver move. Everything cleaned, blurred. What is all the same, I do not understand ... At the time of the slip, the engine worked under the load, that is, the grip worked, but something still slowed down the chain, or asterisk ... Maybe all the same chain was pulled? That is, gave gas - the clutch is enough for the sprocket's drum, but it cannot normally turn the load on the Dvigun - the turnover is falling - the clutch force is weaker - the clutch starts to grind. At the weekend I will try to loosen the chain. Punifying.
Georgi61 (Russia) 3 Aug. 2005. 11:09:21	No, I pulled the chain very much and this was not observed. It is still interesting: the cams and the drum in the oil constantly, but due to the centrifugal force, the grip still grabs as it should. The asterisk should rotate very freely. It seems to me you have a problem with fuel supply or with a carburetor. Another option: Tighten the candle and there must be a gasket, maybe because of the gap if the washer curved compression is insufficient. On the candle (I) there is a metal washer, it may be worth putting the pairsty, it hurts more tightly. Well, you can try to replace the candle. I have at almost a new saw, some problems arose, replaced the candle - and everything went as it should.
Sergey I. (Moscow) 3 Aug. 2005. 11:28:47	2Georgi61: Under the candle, it is not worth padded, it is better to really change it. It is possible to adjust the carburetor, but if you don't know how to do not see. 2Alkzn: Do you have a periodically arising or constantly present? Those. The sawp saws is normal, and then failure or every time the gas is given. Yours faithfully,
Dimkin (Syktyvkar, Russia) 3 Aug. 2005. 13:39:52	And I have shindaiwa, six months passed. Flying is normal. PS: I did not run a drink!
Georgi61 (Russia) 3 Aug. 2005. 13:55:30	Well, cars are also not running, at first, too, the flight is normal, the current is half a resource. And what is laziness, what to run in? - 40 minutes of everything, or 600 grams of gasoline in scrap burn invested?
alkzn. 3 Aug. 2005. 14:02:10	2Sergei and: i'll try in more detail. The first time (after purchase) sawed - everything is OK. I read that the new chain should be tightened, such as pulling until 2 fingers can stretch the chain. I pulled, apparently even a lid. He began to cut a second time. Went, gas - the chain is not spinning. A couple of times gas was twisted. He began to cut - something is not. hard. Weave the chain - everything became OK. For the third time - started, rejected - everything is OK. He began to cut a log - on 3 cuts suddenly began to slow down (the canvas did not clamp), pulled out from the cut - rejected - the chain was unwound. He began to cut again - died in a saw. Looked - fuel ended. I missed, flooded, started. I give Gaza begins to slow down. That is, I give full gas, the chain is spinning, suddenly a small jerk, the chain slows down the dvigun under load (the sound changes immediately) - a couple of seconds, everything is normal, then again a small jerk - slows down. A minute-two like this was so smoking and everything was fine. Then he saw 15 minutes - everything was normal.
Ksv_ (Tula) 3 Aug. 2005. 14:28:56	Perhaps the clinite driven asterisk. Love the chain and drive the sprocket manually at the time of smoothness and inertial rotation.
Sergey I. (Moscow) 3 Aug. 2005. 14:36:38	2alkzn: Somewhere, something twisted, definitely. Hedgehog busy strongly, drag in a workshop or a person who knows the knowledgeable, on the correspondence it is difficult to give one evaluation. Still, look at the bus, perhaps the chain in it subdores. If the front asterisk has been cut, the chain can ride the guide.
alkzn. 3 Aug. 2005. 14:37:23	2Georgi61: do you need to run? Here is an interview with the director of the representative of the County in the Russian Federation http://www.arrows.ru/part/articles/article9.html - Tama says it is not necessary to run. ".. Chainsaws" Stihl "are not subject to running, they are already rebuilt at the factory. The only requirement is not to give full gas without load. After using 5 bits of fuel, you can adjust the carburetor with two jets, acting strictly according to the instructions ..." of course, I don't feel sorry for 600 grams of gasoline, just in the instructions on the car specifically it is said how it is running around, how much time, at what speed you can go, etc. In the guinnance instructions about the run-in written that when the pair of the first tanks does not give the maximum load, work in gentle mode. So maybe you don't need to drive it at idle? 2ksv_: It seemed to shoot twist - it turns easily, smoothly, does not start ...
Georgi61 (Russia) 3 Aug. 2005. 14:38:52	Well, here we arrived, there. Take and run up without load and will be OK!
alkzn. 3 Aug. 2005. 14:45:14	2Sergei and: Thank you. Let's see again. Most importantly, I realized that the problem with the probability of 90% in the zode of the sprocket-tire, i.e. consumables. At the weekend, be sure to drink. If the troubles are again - I will think about the repair ... .. No hunt for warranties ....
alkzn. 3 Aug. 2005. 14:46:53	2Georgi61: Thrust and ripen))). Maybe I will be happy)))
ben. (ukraine) 3 Aug. 2005. 20:15:51	2alkzn: We will soon agree on the point that the tool is not needed. Let this moment be described in the instruction alone, let the absence Detailed explanations of the runway will remain on the conscience of the lazy or mediocre Seller, but any new mechanism be it a chainsaw or even a new chain - It is necessary to run. And one of the techniques of the run-in is offered by Huskvarna in 2002 and has Great positive result Tested time. And her essence is that the tool should work out one loading at idle With a periodic 5-10 minutes by a progasor to blow the exhaust tract, and the following 10 hours work in the "gentle" mode with frequent change of revolutions, without an increased load. And the right seller will surely check the maximum turnover and if it is necessary to adjust The carburetor on the coat mixture before selling the tool and invites you to the final Adjustment after its run-in - of course. Believe my experience This simple procedure saves a lot of money and nerves. And buyer and seller.
alkzn. 15 Aug. Trimmer works only on the scene 2005 11:55:39	Well, I poured on Sunday - the saws well. Apparently the last time all the same got the dirt - the chips here and twisted. Thank you all for comments-advice.
Dima100. (Moscow) 15 Aug. 2005. 12:43:10	I sometimes happened on my calm - when the fuel in the tank comes to an end (or when it ended and only poured a new portion into the tank). This is something with a carburetor ... If you raise the pipe saw vertically up and pay off in this position - passes.
alkzn. 15 Aug. 2005. 16:35:03	2Dima100: Why the chainsaw is deaf under load Running chainsaws and kiosks, cause Chainsaw is no longer a luxury, but a necessary tool for those who have at least some kind of suburban zone. With it, you can perform garden work, collecting firewood, recycle lumber and much more. There is a mass of chainsaw models, characterized in both performance and the overall quality of performance. You can check it out here. e-Katalog.ru. However, any method may be bizarre, and chainsaws are no exception. Consider the most characteristic problems. The tool stops immediately After the start Stagnation chainsaws The reasons for this are similar to the previous one: either the problem in the fuel system or in the air filter. Try to disconnect the fuel hose from the carburetor. If gasoline proceeds badly (but you know for sure that there is fuel in the tank), the reason in the gasoline filter. At the same time, you can check the fuel pump. Fuel should not flow through it. If this happens, the pump should be replaced. Why Chainsaw is dying There are several reasons why the chainsaw is deaf. And, as a rule, almost all of them are solved independently, without going to the service center. Check the filters: fuel and air. If they are clogged, then, of course, it is the reason for the wrong operation of the instrument. And the dirt is not always visible to the naked eye. Therefore, even if it seems that everything is in order, it is better to spend this procedure. The second reason is perhaps in the candle. Remember when you changed it for the last time? According to the rules of operation, chainsaws, it must be done once a year. If it did not help, then you should try to configure the carburetor. Probably due to vibrations when working with chainsaw, its factory settings were lost. If the saw stops after long-term storage, for example, in an unheated garage, then it is worth looking at the fuel line. This is usually a rubber tube that can become cracked and wet from moisture and drop in temperature and lead to a malfunction of chainsaws. If none of the above helped, then, most likely, the breakdown is more serious and, unfortunately, will have to turn to the workshop. What if a chainsaw is dead? Problems associated with incorrect work Fuel system Idle problems due to silencer malfunction Malfunctions of a cylindrophone group Builders, installers, rescuers and gardeners # 8211 All of them, sooner or later, fulfill their tasks, take chainsaw. And how reliably this tool will work, the final result of their activity depends largely. Chainsaw is used to saw wood. It should be noted that chainsaw refers to relatively simple devices. Nevertheless, like other mechanisms, it breaks it periodically. When the chainsaw goes out at idle (this is one of the most common faults), the most a big problem It is to determine the causes of such behavior of the device. If the "disease" source is properly installed, it will not be too difficult to return the device into the working position. Read the same way Therefore, the first thing to be done is to find out which faults have chainsaw, and that makes the engine stop at idle. The car stops at idle: Possible causes To answer the question of why saw, periodically capricious, stops at idle, should be borne in mind that the usual two-stroke engine of internal combustion is based on this tool. It follows from this that various problems with the main components of any Ice lead to failures: fuel and lubricants, the ignition system, the quality of the air-fuel mixture and compression inside the cylinder. The main engine faults are as follows: the engine does not start It starts, but, working uncertainly, quickly stops on idling Chainsaw works normally at idle, but stops under load. The causes of idle disorders can be different. But they can all be reduced to several common positions. Thus, the DVS errors provide such problems as: Internal chainsaw. Possible clogging of fuel and air filter ignition Candle Defect or Malfunction violation in the initial settings of the carburetor caused by strong vibrations during the operation of the mechanism defects of gasoline channels incorrect ratio of ingredients in the "fuel mixture" pollution by silencer malfunction of the cylinder-piston group. Repair Chainsaw Partner. Start But immediately stalls. REPAIR Chainsaw Partner. Starts, But ImmediaTely Stalls. Repairs chainsaws Partner may make it yourself. Chainsaw start and stall Chainsaw does not work glohnet. Do not pylites zadolbala. How much can you about the secret here is it. Back to content Fuel and air filters and elimination Chainsaw will drown out at idle if the fuel or air filter is clogged. To find out the condition of the first element of the fuel system, you must disconnect the gasoline line from the carburetor. If the fuel comes in the form of doses corresponding to the specified standards, the cause of the fault should be signed elsewhere. If gasoline enters the carburetor slightly or does not flow out of the hose, most likely, the filter will clog the garbage. To clean, remove it from the tank (from the tank until this point is completely discharged). Extraction is carried out through a filling tank neck with a wire hook. The filter is disconnected from the suction hose. If possible, the filter is cleared. If there is no such possibility or there is a practical solution for a number of reasons, the filter used changes to the new one. Chainsaw can drown if the fuel filter clogs. The air filter can also be clogged with dirt or dust, which leads to failures at idle. It should be remembered that the clogging of this filter occurs quite often, with the result that the air flow into the system is difficult. In the fuel mixture, the share of gasoline increases, and it turns out to be overly enriched. In this case, it is impossible to expect normal engine operation. To clean the air filter is extracted with extreme caution so as not to vacuum the carburetor. Then it is cleaned and washed thoroughly. The detergent is added to the washing water. After drying, the air filter returns to its place in the chainsaw. For normal operation of the cutting tool, it is recommended to change fuel and air filters every 3 months. Back to content Ignition Candle Problems and Methods Usually this key component of the ignition system is recommended to be changed at least once a year. But often the owners of PIL forget about this rule. And so do not be surprised that the device, the maintenance of which is fragmentary, as a result, badly "holds" idle. Ignition Candle Chainsaws should change once a year. Therefore, it is necessary to pay attention to the following errors related to the operation of this system: Filling the candle with gasoline at the time of launch. To eliminate the problem, they get a candle and, without calcining, dried it. Through a hole in which the candle screws up, excess fuel flows out of the engine. After a break, 30 minutes the candle is entered into place, the mechanism starts. Lack of sparks due to poor contact of the tip of the candle with high-voltage wire. The connection is checked if the defect is broken, the defect is eliminated. No spark due to ignition electronics malfunction. If there is confidence in the reliability of connecting the tip to the high-voltage wire, but when the starter is enabled, it still does not yet occur, the cause of the reference can be a malfunction of the ignition unit. This component is not restored, it changes only on a new one. Wrong gap between candle electrodes. IN different types This indicator is from 0.2 to 0.5 mm. The correct gap is set using a suitable pressure gauge. A greater or smaller clearance for this type of candle is not allowed. Meanwhile, during the initial inspection of the candle, it is possible to find out that the reason for the failure of the chainsaws from the defects of the ignition candle or other elements of the ignition system is not at all. Spark plugs can tell you about the malfunction of the saw. So, if the candle is completely dry, it may mean that the initial problem is impossible to flow fuel into the combustion chamber. In this case, you must check the entire chain of gasoline supply from the carburetor itself. At the same time, the presence on the housing of the candle wood coal # 8211 is a sign that, perhaps, the carburetor is poorly adjusted. Because of this, the fuel mixture is suspended with gasoline. Perhaps oil fell into fuel. In this case, you must clear the ignition candle, replace the fuel and adjust the carburetor. Back to content Non-standard carburetor work If it is detected experimentally: the filters are clean, and the ignition system is not to blame for the fact that the chainsaw cannot function at idle, the tool owner is recommended to switch its attention to the carburetor. How to sharpen chain chainsaws with your own hands: the main rules of work and the necessary devices any devices used in everyday life be it appliances Or gardening equipment require constant and competent service. Timely repair allows you to extend their service life, also increases the level of efficiency ... Disassemble and assemble a carburetor need without a rush, as it has many parts, without which it cannot work. Often an unstable operation leads to inconsistency of this device, which is responsible for the supply of a certain amount of air-fuel mixture into the engine cylinder. Adjust it with three special screws located on the carburetor: the screws of the maximum and minimum speed, as well as the screw that controls the idling speed. Some manufacturers, fearing unwanted interference from incompetent people, supply their products with only one screw for an unemployed year. But in both cases, the adjustment of the carburetor can only be performed when the manufacturer's exactly all instructions are met. However, even after adjusting the carburetor, in accordance with the factory rules, this unit may be blown. Then it is recommended to clean fuel and air channels, jets, the filtering element grid. If the membrane is damaged, it must be replaced with new and high quality. Taking care of the maintenance and, we must always remember that there are usually a lot of small details are usually stuffed, without which the device simply cannot work properly. Therefore, disassembly and assembly of the carburetor should be performed without a rush and with extreme caution. Chainsaw is a decent replacement with manual saws and axes. Today, this tool is available in almost every household - it is indispensable with the arrangement of the household plot, construction and repair work. Intensive operation and improper care tool can lead to premature failure. However, the owner of the chainsaws at all optionally immediately contact the workshop - many of the faults that can happen to it during operation, it is quite realistic to eliminate themselves. Chainsaw design and general malfunction classification The main condition for successful repair is correct. Therefore, to determine why Chainsaw was out of order and, most importantly, how to make it work again, first of all it is necessary to know the features of its design. It should be noted, it does not differ in particular complex, as it includes: In order to simplify malfunction diagnostics, they are common to distinguish between two main categories: engine malfunction; faults of other nodes chainsaws. Most often, failures arise in, however, the rest of the tool due to intensive exploitation or improper care can at any time fail. How to determine where the breakdown happened exactly? This will help us a simple logic. If the problem is in the engine, it will be: do not start; chloride work unstable; overheat; smoke; develop insufficient power. That up to all other faults, as a rule, they show themselves with a normally working motor. Engine launch: Checking Candles If the chainsaw does not start, the first thing to do is check for the presence in the tank. By the way, it must be prepared in the proportions specified by the engine manufacturer, otherwise the tool simply does not start. Making sure that the fuel mixture is correct and is available, you should check the ignition system. To do this, see the ignition candle. Her condition can say about many: dry candle it indicates that the fuel mixture does not fall into the carburetor, which means the problem is not in the ignition; squaled candle fuel it is the result of an oversupply of the fuel mixture, which lies either in the violation of the engine start algorithm, or in improper adjustment of the carburetor; copper-covered candle this is a signal about the presence of low-quality oil in the engine lubrication system, the incorrect settings of the carburetor or about the incorrectly cooked fuel mixture. If it is spattered with fuel, after removing it must be thoroughly wipe. You should also clean the fuel supply system. To do this, it overlaps, after which the starter is turned on. Covered in Naigar candle must be carefully cleaned with the help of sewed and emery. When checking the candles, you should pay attention to the distance between the electrodes (the normal clearance is 0.5-0.65 mm), as well as the state of the gasket and the presence of spark. The damaged or worn gasket will have to be replaced, and the spark can be checked, putting the ignition cable, connecting the cylinder and the candle nut and starting the starter. If the discharge does not occur, the candle must be replaced. In the event that the spark does not appear with the new candle, it means that the problem is connected to the high-voltage wire or in it itself. Repair chainsaw do it yourself: fuel supply system If the fuel mixture does not enter the cylinder, but the candle works fine, it may mean that: The fuel filter clogged. To clean this node, you should remove the fuel hose and check the jet. If it is weak, the filter must be obtained through the fuel tank bay hole and clean it or replace in case of complete wear. Sapun clogged. It is nothing but a hole in the lid of the fuel tank, which is cleaned with the help of sewing. The fuel mixture is not fed or fed in insufficient quantity. There may be several reasons for this: Elimination with silencer If it works normally on small speed, but it starts to stroke and smoke at high, the problem may be hidden in the silencer. To check the quality of its work, follow: Dry cleaning without respiratory protection tools is not recommended. Carcinogens present in Nagar will stand out in the surrounding atmosphere in the form of dust, inhaling which is extremely dangerous to health. In order to prevent the silencer in the process of operation of chainsaws, it is necessary to closely monitor the composition of the fuel mixture and the quality of its components. Repair of a cylinder-piston group (CPG) If the chainsaw engine does not start either can develop normal power, it is likely that in the engine cylinder does not occur sufficient pressure to combust the fuel mixture. The reason for this can be the wear of elements - piston, rings, bearings, etc. In order to estimate the state of this node, it should be obtained by a visual inspection, after removing the silencer. For a more complete diagnosis in the candle opening of the two-stroke engine, the chainsaw is placed compressometer. With it, the compression is performed in the engine. According to the results of the verification, you can judge the state of the CPG, however, the exact facts can be obtained only with a complete disassembly of the node. If chipsets or scratches are present on the piston, it is obvious that it will have to be replaced. The same applies to the deformed or broken piston rings - for normal engine operation, they must be fully working and clean from Nagara. Checking the carburetor and signs of the need to adjust Properly working guarantees the maximum efficiency of the chainsaw, that is, it is possible to develop full power with the most economical flow rate of the fuel mixture. Adjusting this node is usually carried out by the manufacturer, however, its design provides for the ability to set up during operation. The fact that such a setting will have to perform the owner of the chainsaws indicate: Strong vibrations or presence of damage to the protective cap. Wear CPG. Cutting carburetor. The inability to start the engine or its spontaneous stops after launch. Increase the fuel consumption and exhaust volume while the engine power drops simultaneously. Adjustment of the carburetor chainsaws is carried out in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instruction using three special screws that are responsible for the maximum ("M") and minimal ("L") turnover, as well as the idling of the engine ("T"). In order to exclude the undesirable intervention of an inexperienced user to the work of the carburetor, some manufacturers are installed only one idle screw. Algorithm Calibration and Safety Safety while troubleshooting Chainsaw Carburetor The adjustment of the carburetor is performed in two stages: Basic (carried out when the engine is turned off). Finish (carried out when working, pre-dried by engine). For basic adjustment, it is necessary to wrap the screws H and L until it stops and turn back to 1.5 turns. The finishing adjustment requires the engine to warm for 5-10 minutes on small revolutions. The finish is performed by turning the idling screw until the minimum engine speed is reached (its operation should be stable, and the chain is fixed). If the engine at idle stops, the screw must be returned backwards, and if the saw chain is still driven, it is necessary to continue turning off counterclockwise. Calibration check is performed by test: Acceleration (with a smooth press on the accelerator, the engine must quickly gain momentum to the maximum indicator). The maximum number of revolutions (if there is interruptions in the ignition, the screw should weaken a little). Work at idle (the chain should not move, and the engine must gain momentum as fast as possible). If the chainsaw owner is not familiar with the carburetor device and does not have the tool you need to be calibrated, you should contact a specialist. The carburetor is a very complex node, so any incorrect action can lead to irreversible consequences, for example, the complete failure of the engine. Other faults chainsaw If the diagnosis showed that everything is in order with the engine and its systems, it means that the cause of the fault should be sought in others. The most common problems such as: If the reason for the output of the instrument is not visible to the naked eye, as in the case of the engine, it is necessary to perform a thorough diagnosis of faults and eliminate them in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations and safety regulations. Repair chainsaws do it yourself, video